Wednesday, April 11, 2012

At Play in the Culinary Sandbox

One of the pleasures of teaching at a culinary institute is the ability to play with toys - equipment that is usually not available to the average Joe.  Here are pictures of various purees spun @ 8,000 RPM.  The duration is 30 minutes to 120 minutes.  Playing in the culinary sandbox...  

 Cantaloupe, Butternut Squash & Beet (above)
 Blueberry, Pea & Butternut Squash (above)
 Butternut Squash, Blueberry & Pea (above)
 The Centrifuge Settings
 Beet - probably my favorite...
 Cooking the beets in a water bath @ 85 degrees C.
 A loaded centrifuge - a beautiful thing...
 Mise en place #1
Mise en Place #2


See and taste the finalized products to be used in the Boulder Country Dinner.  Peace.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Updated Menus - 12 May 2012


‘A Spring Tasting Menu…’

Herb * Potato * Asparagus * Fresh Hen's Egg * Rabbit * Grass-Fed Beef * Sheep's Milk * Garden Peas * Ricotta * Chevre * Chickens * Spring Lamb * Frais de Bois * Strawberry * Lobster * Suckling Pig * Mint * Ham * Foie Gras * Poussin * Veal * Rhubarb * Chocolate

…with a French accent!



Suprises & Treats on the Deck

with a Special-Cocktail-of-the-Evening…
                                                                                 
Canape
'12Seasons Chevre, Parsley, Colorado Honeycomb, Backyard Greens'
                                                                              
                                                                                                  Soupe
'Pea Porridge, Pea Consomme, Mirepoix, Pea Butter Crouton, Fresh Hen's Egg'

                                                                                                  Poisson
                                                               'Lobster Ragout, Asparagus Salad, Potato Truffle Mille Feuille'

                                                                                                    Entrée
                                                  'Spring Leg of Lamb, Wild Lettuces, Triple-Fried Potato, Morels, Mustard Flowers'

                                                                          Intermede
                                
                                                                                                     Salade
                                                                                   'Suckling Pig, Spinach, Acorns, Walnuts'

                                                                                                     Dessert
                                                                    'Pickled Rhubarb, Sheep's Milk Yogurt Sorbet, Salted Caramel'

Wine pairings to follow…  Let me know if you have any specific food allergies or dislikes…  Call me for additional information @ 303.667.3768.  Send your remittance/check to:

                                                            Chef Robert N. Corey dba The French Manner & 12Seasons
                                                                                               P.O. Box 270487
                                                                                      Louisville, Colorado 80027

Upon receipt of payment, I will send you confirmation of your reservation and directions to the ‘Country House’.  See you in the country!

                                                       12Seasons is a member of: SLOW FOOD USA

Peace.









Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Your Invitiation...


  The Boulder Country Dinner – 12th of May, 2012


‘The devil is in the details! Chef Robert Corey¹s Boulder Country Dinner series is the equivalent of having your bucket list meal – and best of all you get to repeat the experience every month!  Guitarists call Hendrix a guitar player's guitarist.  Chefs call Robert Corey a Chef's Chef! What else can be said about gourmet cuisine, wine and fellowship in this bucolic country setting? Jump on it, you will be happy you did!’

~Christopher J. Davies, Co-Founder, Editor & Publisher - Wine Country International® Magazine & VinoTasting



The Boulder Country Dinner series continues with a Food & Wine pairing on Saturday, the 12th of May, 2012 at 6:00 p.m.  Once again we will be at the ‘Country House’ in Niwot, Colorado.  I invite you to come to our table to dine with us in the country!!!



We will set a table for 20 guests.  Seated together you will dine communally, outdoors or indoors as the weather permits.  The fashionable concepts of a Seasonal Menu a la Slow Food, Farm-to-Table, Local and Organic, are integrated within one vision – my food is carefully and caringly sourced, prepared and served to you, usually with a French accent. 



The Dinner will be composed of seven-courses of my ‘Nouvelle Classics’ paired with wines – all with seasonal tones.  My impetus comes from Springtime produce from Munson Farms in Boulder, Colorado.  Some of my dishes have progeny from The French Laundry in Napa Valley and Eleven Madison Park in NYC.  The wine service will be a tasting of novel and boutique wineries that deserve our attention.  My plates and bowls are small, multiple course creations - it will not be fine dining, but the dining will be fine.  Please advise us of any special seating needs or dietary requirements.  The cost is $100.00 per person (including wine service), paid in advance to secure your place at the table.  So…Guess who’s coming to dinner?



                                                     ‘A Spring Tasting Menu…’

What's in Season? Herb * Potato * Asparagus * Fresh Hen's Egg * Rabbit * Grass-Fed Beef * Sheep's Milk * Garden Peas * Ricotta * Chevre * Chickens * Spring Lamb * Frais de Bois * Strawberry * Lobster * Suckling Pig * Mint * Ham * Foie Gras * Poussin * Veal * Rhubarb * Chocolate

…with a French accent!

Canape

'12Seasons Chevre, Parsley, Colorado Honeycomb, Backyard Greens'


Soupe

'Pea Porridge, Pea Consomme, Mirepoix, Pea Butter Crouton, Fresh Hen's Egg'


Poisson

'Lobster Ragout, Asparagus Salad, Potato Truffle Mille Feuille'


Entrée

'Spring Leg of Lamb, Wild Lettuces, Farro Rizotto, Morels, Mustard Flowers'


Intermede


Salade

'Suckling Pig, Spinach, Acorns, Walnuts'


Dessert

'Pickled Rhubarb, Sheep's Milk Yogurt Sorbet, Salted Caramel'



Wine pairings to follow…  Let me know if you have any specific food allergies or dislikes…  Call me for additional information @ 303.667.3768.  Send your remittance/check to:



Chef Robert N. Corey dba The French Manner & 12Seasons

P.O. Box 270487

Louisville, Colorado 80027



Upon receipt of payment, I will send you confirmation of your reservation and directions to the ‘Country House’.  See you in the country!  -R

Sunday, April 1, 2012

American Cuisine Today


American Cuisine Today

Chef Robert N. Corey, B.A., A.O.S., C.E.C.




An Introduction to American Cuisine Today

Chef Robert N. Corey, B.A., A.O.S., C.E.C.

Spring 2012



“Revolution & Evolution’



The sheer size of our country, the multitude of cultures within our borders and the breadth of products we produce make qualifying a ‘definitive American food culture’ extremely difficult.  Perhaps that difficulty actually defines us.  We are a conglomerate of Food Cultures, a Culture of Cultures.  America is geographically diverse, topographically challenged, immigrantic, 50-stated and food opinionated! 



America is ethnic and global.  We are what we eat, eats as Michael pollan has stated.  Our roots are European, mostly Spanish and English and, now, Asian.  Our oldest restaurants are standard European in design and cuisine.  Yet, we are more than restaurants.  We are street food and Farmer’s Markets and Food Trucks.  European food is the blending of flavors and Asian cuisines are the street parties in our mouths. 



The great ethnic food cultures of the biggest immigrant cities in America are in LA, NYC, Chicago and Miami.  Great food happens here but it can be found in the smallest hamlets and villages in the country, too.  Travel to the upper Midwest lake communities and to smoky valleys of Appalachia where there are cultural food offerings on every table.  the same is true on the beaches of Puritan Cape Cod to the Navajo hogans of our native Americans.  It is all so bloody good, unique and real.  Travel the country and taste it from street vendors to michelin freaks – all the while looking over your fork at someone who hopefully understands and appreciates it as much as you do.  Smile.  Sometimes food experiences can be like seeing the sunrise for the very first time. 



‘I hear America cookin’

It’s coming round again

There’s Pork and Corn a growin’

From Kidz to Women and Men.’

-Betty Fussell, ‘I Hear America Cooking’.



 We are cooking on the precipice of a new dawn.  The Revolution of American Gastronomy.  The cuisine in America is like her history – it involves freedom.  The freedom of expression.  The freedom to be creative.  The freedom to break boundaries.  The Statue of Liberty, a.k.a. ‘The New Colossus’, stands in New York Harbor and has beckoned, since 1886, with the words of Emma Lazarus:



‘Give me your tired, your poor,
Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,
The wretched refuse of your teeming shore.
Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me,
I lift my lamp beside the golden door!’



We Americans are a multi-cultural epic and ethnic collaboration of all the world’s people.  Diversity reigns in America.  Thus, our food follows suit.  In spite of this grand arrangement, the cuisine in restaurants must still impart a connection – a connection to the land, the spirit of its immigration, of the culture and of the season.  food must always taste good, make sense, and sate us in a visceral and physical manner.  We must cook to make people happy.



There are four Evolutions in the Revolution of American Gastronomy, and undoubtedly there are more to come.  In order to get where we are today, however, Chefs in America (and not always American chefs) had to join the movement to the past – the return to the land.  The objective was to find and source the best ingredients and if you couldn’t find them to find someone who would grow them.  The purely American Cuisine began by cooking those indigenous American products well while breaking the ties to European traditions of cookery.  Getting away, bit by bit, from the ‘classics’ brought new freedoms which allowed American Chefs to affect International Cuisine, as well.  Now the world comes to America to cook…



American Cuisine today is about bounty.  The bounty from our gardens.  Here lies another evolution in American cooking.  From Farmer’s Markets in Long Island to farms in the Carolinas, to Mid-western corn behemoths and fertile California valleys, American Chefs are clamoring for local, organic and sustainable products.  We are embracing cooking with the seasons and we are revolting against animal proteins inoculated and modified.



And, glory be!  we are learning to cook again.  A lost art that began to slip away in the 50’s, has found resurgence.  Cooks and Chefs are entertainment Kings and Queens!  Who will lead us into the middle of the century?  An American?  European?  Asian?  Whoever leads us it will still be an Evolution of American Cuisine.  In America, we are that Evolution, chefs who are the proverbial mixed, melting, conglomerate pot that is the American Dream.



In American Cuisine Today we shall explore the American landscape, find its gastronomic pulse, taste the culture-of-the-moment and dive into the ocean of the American palate – one great restaurant at a time.  We will be creating Spring Tasting Menus from the minds of the country’s best Chefs and from Dining Rooms across the land, from sea to shining sea.



We Americans may be defined by who our natural or adopted parents (family or country) might be.  More specifically we are defined by how we were raised and what events or rituals shaped our memories, and by what defined by our food preferences.  What we eat can be who we are, or what we wish to be.



‘Pioneers in American Cuisine’



The First New Age (The 70’s) – ‘The Classical Period’:

Jean-Louis Palladin

Alice Waters

Robert Mondavi

Julia Child

Graham Kerr

Madeline Kamman

James Beard

Waverly Root

Craig Clairborne

Greenpeace



Closer To Home (The 80’s) – ‘The Regional American’ Influence:

Paul Prudhomme

Dean Fearing

mark Miller

Wolfgang Puck

Jasper White

Larry Forgione

Jonathan Waxman

John Folse

Jeremiah Tower

Bradley Ogden



The Big Explosion (The 90’s) – ‘The Contemporary Period’ (Also known as ‘The Las Vegas Period’):

Thomas Keller

Alfred Portale

Charlie Trotter

Charlie palmer

Daniel Boulud

Norman Van Aken

Eric Ripert

Gary Danko

Jean-Georges Vongerichten

Rick Tramonto

Todd English

David Burke

The Food Network

Alfred Portale



New Chefs, New Issues (21st C.) – ‘The Cutting Edge Period’:

Slow Food

The Green Movement

Seasonal, Sustainable, Local and Organic Food

Grant Achatz

Nathan Myrvold, Chris Young and maxime Bilet

Food Trucks

David Chang

Daniel Humm

George Mendes

Wiley Dufresne

Joel Salatin (Polyface farms, VA)

Dan Barber

Bryan Voltaggio

Michael Ciramusti

JB Prince

PolyScience

Linda Runyon (ofthefield.com)

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

In the Garden (2009) and A God Within (1974)

This is one of my favorite blogs written in Napa Valley in 2009, and it returns in 2012 at a time of spring (early spring in Colorado) renewal.  I am rediscovering the importance of the garden.  The rich and pastoral gardens that Americans tended in the 18th and 19th centuries, Victory Gardens of the 1940's, the tenement gardens in city brownstones, the 21st century poly-cultural rooftop gardens in Germany and Scandanavia and the plots of local and organic tilled earth that sustain myself and 12Seasons...  Enjoy the garden.  Btw, I apologize for the different background color.  Hey, I'm a chef not a magazine editor...   What follow In the Garden is of special note to those who are intrigued by the human existance... -R




59 – In the Garden

“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of perspiration”. ~ Lou Erickson

My Sunday evening ended on Monday morning at 1:30 a.m.  One hour drive to Santa Rosa in the rain, fog and dark. I realized then, at 2:30 a.m., that I wasn't going to make a scheduled 7:30 a.m. shift in The French Laundry garden. In bed at 3:00, I "slept" until 6:30 a.m.  Refreshed (!) from my 3 ½ hours of REM-deprived horizontal-ness, I showered, packed for my weekend (Angel's Camp, California - home to the "Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County" by Samuel L. Clemens - with my mother, brother and sister-in-law) trip and hustled into Napa Valley, arriving at TFL at 8:00 a.m.. Yes, I was late. I knew I had to atone for my belated start. My apologies were accepted and I went to work. My day consisted of: trimming and scissor-snipping the green onions, removing the brown withered tops and giving them a "spikey-funky" haircut...; weed all the newly-sprouted fennel seedlings; tend the beds of micro-greens and weed them accordingly; spread the thyme, cabbage and greens beds with new straw bale for the expected weekend crowds during the Taste of Yountville; rake and keep the grassy areas between the plots clean and orderly; tend, hoe and weed the Spring Onion bed...

“What a man needs in gardening is a cast-iron back, with a hinge in it”. ~ Charles Dudley Warner, My Summer in a Garden, 1871

Ouch. I begrudgingly tended gardens as a child in Sutton, Massachusetts and have home-gardened at various places that I have lived. The difference is - now I'm 50, and this is no home garden I tend...  However, I went at my tasks with new-found excitement. I really enjoyed the elements and the work. The stretching every 15 minutes or so was necessary, and saw others doing the same... "Tonight is going to be a four-Ibuprophen night", I remember thinking...and, it was. Especially after the five hours I spent night-driving south to Angels' camp. That's another story...

“There can be no other occupation like gardening in which, if you were to creep up behind someone at their work, you would find them smiling”. ~ Mirabel Osler

I found myself outdoors for more than eight hours. Eight hours of driving rain, sunshine, wind, drizzle and a continuous flow of passers-by who were eager to walk among the well-manicured plots and stop to, like Ferdinand The Bull, "smell the flowers (or herbs)", take pictures of their loved ones or aimlessly stroll from one end of the garden to the other - all with smiles on their faces. I smiled, too.

“Gardening is a matter of your enthusiasm holding up until your back gets used to It”. ~                                       Unknown

I respect those that grow things. It fulfills their soul and takes all their time. Time to do it well. It takes passion. Think of the possibilities. Heirlooms. Flowers. Seeds. Earth and soil. Water. Sun and natural fertilizers. Earthworms, ladybugs and the micro-geography of the garden. The quiet solitude in the garden belies the physical effort it takes to till the earth with bare or gloved hands and toil under sun or clouds to grow the flowers, tubers, herbs, roots and plants that we use as food. My day was just a small contribution to the efforts that are put forth by TFL Head Gardener and staff. Lovely to look at, the sundry plots of vegetables and herbs are a necessary part-of-the-whole-experience that is, The French Laundry.

It was, in spite of my back pain - a great day.
Peace.

~R

If all mankind were to disappear, the world would regenerate back to the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago. If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into chaos.
 - E.O. Wilson

Man, an Unexpressed God (This is a 1974 review of a book written by Rene Dubos titled 'A God Within'.  As an Anthropology student I was deeply moved by the tome and have referred to it often.  Buy it, read it and then lay out in a hay field gazing at the clouds overhead and you too might become a chef...) -R

By Michael Cosser





Human life should grow, not quantitatively through the conquest of nature, but qualitatively in cooperation with nature.

 - Rene Dubos, A God Within

The quality of the inherent nature of man is an important topic raised by a book by the Nobel Prize-winning scientist Dr. Rene Dubos: A God Within (Charles Scribner's Sons, New York, 1972).The author is not only a famous microbiologist, but also one of the leading supporters of the view that our ecosystem is in danger because of the devastating side effects of modern technology. He is not opposed to industrialization as such, only to its advance in total disregard of the effects of its indestructible waste products which cannot be absorbed into the despoiled environment. Irreducible plastic containers piling up in their millions provide mute testimony, contrasting with the debris of ancient civilizations which was taken back into the natural habitat. The most valuable contribution of the book is its stimulation of thoughts about the distinctive characteristics of man and, by implication, of the cosmic life patterns of which he is a part.

At the very outset, Dr. Dubos raises the interesting concept of entheos, a Greek term meaning 'god within,' from which our familiar word enthusiasm comes. He states it is this that drives man on into ever new ventures and greater creativity. Yet it would be better to say that it is not only enthusiasm in the ordinary sense, but also inspiration, for both are expressions of entheos, the god within. This suggests the kind of enthusiasm that Plato might have had in mind when he said the power of the poet to move the souls of men came through an ecstasy or 'divine mania' resulting from an overshadowing or 'possession' by the god Apollo, symbol of the Logos or universal mind.

This point of view opens up a larger vista of what is implied by the Greek term entheos, encompassing much more than the peculiarities of a personality that lasts only one lifetime. Dubos expounds it 'scientifically,' as the manifestation of what we inherit genetically and distill from our experience. He says that our ideals and what we commit ourselves to, flow from or are the expression of this entheos, thus accounting for the kinds of thoughts which emerge from us, and what we do. But does this really explain how and why we react to our surroundings and what happens to us in life? Does it describe the factors that combine to make us unique individuals? Happenstance and randomness cannot account for the various phenomena found in nature, such as the endless replication throughout a lifetime of each individual's distinctive DNA molecules, which are the vehicles of innate characteristics, not their creators.

The persistence of individuality cannot yet be explained in biological terms. Even though nerve cells do not multiply after birth, they keep growing at a rate matching the fastest proliferating cells of the adult body, and yet amidst all this flux, the mind retains a sense of identity throughout life. This stability implies the existence of a pattern of neural organization that is essentially independent of metabolic changes.

Does this not point to the presence within us of an entity of some kind that is the real center of the magnetic field we call a man, and of which we see but the outer ranges or integuments?

What everyone values most is his or her own individuality. Yet, by and large, sociologists and behaviorists try to explain human phenomena merely by generalizing from certain common traits observed in the 'hothouse' conditions of modem cities. They assert that the consciousness part of a human being consists only of biological and psychological factors arising from family inheritance and environment, and now incorporated into body and mind. Their findings are even being applied retrospectively to the study of historic peoples whose outlooks must have been quite different from those prevailing today. The real creators, the artists and thinkers, of long-gone civilizations, whose record we can only guess at from the broken shards, scattered references in old writings, and ruins, are veiled from our eyes.

The special "I-ness" that is the core of each one of us has experienced many things in a long succession of earthly vehicles. The various expressions of man's thinking and doing arise from the central individuality that continues as an identity through all the changes and vicissitudes of daily life. This is part of the process of a never-ending refinement of quality emanating from inside and tempered by the new circumstances that spring up from old causes sown like seeds in this or previous lifetimes.

Man's life "depends upon a hierarchical order," says Dr. Dubos, a suggestive concept that has its roots in antiquity. Not only was it then understood that the whole cosmos is comprised of families or hierarchies of entities, interlocking to embody the consciousness of the whole, but also that we ourselves compound a hierarchy of selves. These range from the most physical field, or body, to the most elevated or spiritual-divine. This thought can be expressed in another way, again quoting from the author:

Individuality is thus "becoming" rather than "being," a continuously evolving structure made up of inherited and acquired characteristics that are integrated at each step into an organic whole.

If we interpret the "inheritance" to mean what we have taken up from our own past lives, then the "becoming" and "evolving" more surely fit the development of faculty from the central essence within.

A flower illustrates this point very well. At first there is scarcely a speck, insignificant in size but already bearing within the "empty space in its heart" the design that will swell out into a small bud and reach its fullness as an open flower. Similarly, in the psychological heart of man's being there is a blueprint of which he has already embodied some of the parts. He is different from the rest of earth's children, he can make decisions, organize and reject; when spurred by inspiration he can make things of great beauty or ingenuity -- all of which is done with the power of the soul. The whole of the pattern has not yet been unfolded; if we may believe the encouraging words of wise men who have preceded us, we are to keep growing until the qualities of the entheos manifest in relative fullness.

Can the parts be different from the whole? Can we have qualities that are not to be found in our parentage in the consciousness of Space? Deep run the roots of man's being, indeed of all beings, through the layers of substance into the immensities of the infinitude. Because we have a common source, are sustained by a common supply of life force, are blended of similar ingredients, we recognize that there are bonds linking together every spark in the vastness. Brotherhood is a fact in nature and not a mere sentiment.

It is encouraging that scientists like Rene Dubos and the late Erwin Schrodinger turn to philosophical concepts to flesh out the dry bones of the data they accumulate in their researches. When Origen exhorted man: "Thou art a second world in miniature, the sun and moon are within thee, and also the stars," he meant we are all compounded of the same stuff. But he was likewise a link in the chain of Neoplatonists at the great center in Alexandria. And their ancient teaching was that the personal part of man came from a previous manifestation of earth's being, that which is now the moon. The spiritual side of man was regarded as of solar origin and the divine spark it carried in its center was thought to have a starry parentage.

Our individuality has been inherent in us from the very beginning of existence on earth. When our self-consciousness was awakened, bringing with it awareness of space, time and continuity, and of consciousness per se, we were able to communicate with each other. We shared the common aspects of our experience, but we could not impart the shades of meaning felt in our deepest recesses and beyond the powers of the reasoning faculty to define.

The sudden illuminations, the spontaneous ideas and achievements of creative artists and scientists, of social reformers, even of our own daily selves, originate in the still, quiet nucleus of our inmost self.

Man's physical transformations of his habitat have beautified and also made ugly the handiwork of nature. They have frequently drawn into actuality what was hidden in the wilderness as potentiality, in the same way as Michelangelo evoked out of the marble the hidden beauty his eyes saw there. Just imagine what it would be like if man equally transmuted his selfish, material traits into their noblest potentials. 
Peace.

-R

The Need to Feed - My Sabbatical Journey (2009)

http://theneedtofeed-mysabbaticaljourney.blogspot.com/

This changed my life.  There are 67 blogs over two and a half months time when I was a stagiaire at The French Laundry in 2009.  I lived, ate and slept food - Michelin 3-star food, service, attitude and the pursuit of perfection. 

Peace.

Monday, March 26, 2012

The Boulder Country Dinner Menu - 12 May 2012

Thinking on the menu for 12 May 2012.  Must be (in this order):

Seasonal.
Organic.
Sustainable.
Local.

In season:  Herb * Potato * Asparagus * Fresh Hen's Egg * Rabbit * Grass-Fed Beef * Sheep's Milk * Garden Peas * Ricotta * Chevre * Chickens * Spring Lamb * Frais de Bois * Strawberry * Lobster * Suckling Pig * Mint * Ham * Foie Gras * Poussin * Veal * Rhubarb * Chocolate

With that in mind...a spring menu with a French accent:

Canape - 'House-Made Chevre, Honeycomb & Backyard Greens'
Soupe - 'Potage St. Germain & Fresh Hen's Egg'
Poisson - 'Lobster, Asparagus & Potato Mille Feuille'
Entree - 'Roasted Spring Lamb with Lettuce, Morels & Mustard Seeds'
Intermede - 'Milk & Honey'
Salade - 'Suckling Pig, Chard & Walnuts'
Dessert - 'Rhubarb & Sheep's Milk Yogurt Sorbet'

The above menu necessitates a nod, in part, to Daniel Humm from Eleven Madison Park, NYC.  Wines TBD.  Salivating.  Hunger. 


Peace.